~ ~
Hooks - Matching the Tool to the Job
By Jerry Puckett

March/April 1996

Stick your head inside any auto shop and the first things to catch your eye are the condominium-sized tool boxes sporting names such as Snap-On or Matco. Few people realize that these tools are not dealership property, but rather, the stock in trade of a journeyman mechanic and easily represent a $10,000 to $20,000 investment. And why so many? Simply put, each of those tools is designed for a specific task and enables the mechanic to be more efficient and productive. Most line mechanics work by "the book", not the clock. Each job carries a rate of pay, the more completed jobs the more money they earn.

Fishing is not that far separated from auto mechanics in this regard. The better suited the tackle is to a specific presentation or technique, the more efficient and productive the angler can be. Nowhere is this more evident than in the choice of hooks. It is interesting, however, that this most crucial link between angler and fish has only become popularized in the past year or so. And even now few of us fully avail ourselves of what the market has to offer.

For starters, let's assume that we all recognize the importance of a sharp hook. Factoring in rod deflection and line stretch our only ally in achieving the desired penetration is a keen point. But, will that point be of a conical shape, triangular, or multi-edged like an Owner. Here we run head on into personal opinions arrived at via personal experience or as a result of subscribing to popular wisdom. It's the old cutting point versus cone point controversy. The cutting point supposedly penetrates more easily because it does what the name implies, cuts or slices. But we're led to believe that a cutting point leaves a larger hole and thus makes it easier for the hook to back out. On the other hand, the conical style has more surface area to generate resistance but stays buckled better due to the smaller hole it generates.

The most readily apparent difference between a "premium" hook and an old standby design is the size of the barb. No doubt a smaller barb allows easier penetration past the barb. But, does this design allow the hook to be thrown easier? Again, this is a personal opinion scenario. It is the position of the manufacturers of the premium hooks that, unless the hook penetrates fully, all other considerations are secondary. I'm inclined to agree.

An often overlooked factor is the durability of the hook point. Some manual sharpening methods as well as some power sharpening accessories yield an incredibly sharp point - unfortunately the point may be extremely fragile. Even pressure against a thumbnail can bend such a point. Not good. In this regard the Owner style point is probably the strongest of all, followed by a factory conical point such as Gamakatsu or VMC. Next come the manually sharpened triangular shape followed by the power honed cone point. You are left to choose which suits your style and budget.

The next consideration is basic metallurgy. It's not necessary to understand all the terms to understand the concepts of brittleness and tensile strength or toughness and yield strengths. The need for a hook point to be both sharp and tough requires that some compromises be made in metallurgy. A double-edged razor blade is incredibly sharp and the edge is durable, but it's not tough. As thin as the blade is, it will not bend far before snapping. It is hard and brittle. High tensile strength yields hardness but lacks toughness.

A good example of high tensile strength is a Black Weapon Hook which has a very hard point and will not deflect up to the point at which it snaps. This style hook cannot withstand any shear pressure. It's sharp and it will stay sharp but you can snap it between your thumbs.

Heat treating to yield tensile strength is a funny creature. A top quality 1/4-inch Allen bolt (one of the pretty black ones) is heat treated to 180,000 pounds per square inch. Quick math indicates that the little 1/4-inch bolt has a tensile strength of nearly 9,000 pounds. On a straight lift with no shear pressure you could lift your pickup truck and bass boat with only a single 1/4-inch Allen bolt. But, you can snap that same bolt with a 6-inch Allen wrench. Go figure.

Chromolly steel and some stainless alloys are, on the other hand very tough. While not as hard as some of the higher tensile types (which means that a hook made from that material would not stay sharp as long) the choromolly is exceedingly though by comparison. Such a hook will bend some without yielding. that is, bend but rebound to it's original shape. A hook that bends past its yield point is then, in a word, bent.

So, what is the best material for hooks? It depends. I like to spoon fish for wintertime bass and stripers. I typically use a 3/4-ounce spoon and 14 to 17-pound test line, depending on the cover I'm fishing. I like to use a #4 Gamakatsu treble because it is both sharp and will straighten out enough on a steady pull to clear most snags. I then bend the hook back to shape, check the point, and I'm back to fishing. This hook, with its relatively low yield point, suits my needs perfectly. A high tensile hook would be a loss on every snag, either snapping instead of bending or failing to yield and staying hung-up. The lower yield point of the Gamakatsu treble is not a factor when fighting a fish as most of us do not fight treble-hooked fish on a tight drag. Too much chance of tearing the hook out of a thinly-hooked fish.

Compare this to the requirements placed on the hook when flipping heavy cover for big fish or battling giant Mexican bass on a single hook in heavy cover. We're talking high shock loads, heavy shear loading and extreme pressure being exerted on the hook. Not a time for a brittle hook but also not a good application for a hook with a low yield point. For this job I want a wide gap Owner or a Sugoi. An extra strong hook that will bend only slightly but not break, very tough. I would not choose a Black Weapon nor one of the extra-wide gap Gamakatsus. One will break and the other one bends too easily.

For finesse fishing or light line split shotting the requirements are entirely different. Due to light line tests, considerable line stretch with normal mono and soft action rods, the premium consideration is hook sharpness to aid penetration. Even though I still prefer one of the smaller Sugoi hooks for this job this is one are where the high tensile Weapon hooks work very well. They are sharp, stay sharp and with light tackle it is unlikely that you would ever generate enough shear load to snap it off.

For just these three examples we've chosen hooks that have entirely different properties. There is no one hook that will best satisfy all of our fishing needs in the same way that there is no one tool that will satisfy the needs of a master mechanic.

Analyze your fishing style and needs and then take a detailed inventory of your own hook "tool box". If on careful study you find that you've got nothing but a major assortment of crescent wrenches and hammers, it may be time to see the bass fishing "Snap-On" man for a new supply of Gamakatsus, Owners, and Sugois.

~ ~